Gel vs gel polish nails: What’s the difference?

The gel and gel polish nail systems have notable differences, and serve distinct purposes at the nail desk. Understanding their use and benefits is essential, in order to choose the right product for each client’s nail goals.

The science behind gel products

In the book: Nail Therapist – A Professional Guide, Maria Sundberg Stuxgren, author, explains that all gel products are composed of advanced chemical compounds, but the properties of these products are determined by the structure of their individual polymer chains. These are made from liquid monomers and partially polymerised monomers (oligomers). These molecules join together during the polymerisation process when exposed to UV energy from UV/LED lamps, which creates the hardened nail enhancement.

Manufacturers control the length of the polymer chains and the spacing between the molecules, which determines the properties of the polymer formed during curing. For example, the more irregularly arranged the molecules are, the softer the polymer becomes, making it more flexible. By experimenting with molecular positioning and arrangement, manufacturers can create different gel formulas with unique characteristics.

Gel nails

The purpose of the the gel system, traditionally housed in a pot and applied with a separate brush, is to build and extend nails. Durable, and with a thicker consistency than gel polish, it can be used for natural nail overlays, or with forms or tips to lengthen the nail. The formula requires a UV or LED lamp to cure (harden) the product.

But what’s the difference between hard and soft gel?

Hard Gel has a tight molecular structure and low molecular weight, creating a hard, robust nail coating that can last around four weeks. This makes hard gel nails an attractive and versatile choice for a range of purposes, including building length with extension tips, strengthening natural nails and assisting clients who want to grow their nails, such as nail biters. Hard gels can’t be soaked off, but instead must be filed off.

Brand ambassador for The GelBottle Inc, Learnah Starbuck, shares: “I find that hard gel is suited to longer nails, or clients who have very hands-on jobs and need extra strength. It’s ideal for clients who want to extend their nails and infill longer nails to create super-strong enhancements.”

Justyna Pryke, gel specialist & owner of Indulge Nails & Beauty in Leeds, adds: “Hard gel is also great for clients who want long nails but have brittle or damaged natural nails, as the product’s strong structure lasts well on these nail types.”

Soft Gel has an elongated molecular structure with gaps, making them more porous and easier to break down with acetone-based removal products. While soft gel can be applied in the same way as hard gel – with a brush and pot, it has a thinner consistency to hard gel, so can be soaked off, but may not be as durable or suitable for building length.

Gel polish nails

Gel polish is a type of soft gel that is cured under a UV or LED light to create a natural nail coating. Its thin and flexible viscosity makes it ideal for quick overlays and nail art designs, so is a popular choice for clients. Nail Therapist – A Professional Guide explains the product as offering greater durability than regular nail polish, reducing the likelihood of chipping, however offering less durability than hard gels, due to a more porous molecular structure.

Gel polish can be removed with acetone-based products, positioning it as a good choice for clients whose nail goals don’t focus on enhancing the strength, length or structure of their natural nails, but who also want a longer-lasting manicure than that offered by nail polish.