Why the arch is integral to a well balanced nail enhancement
By Katie Barnes | 25 June 2019 | Expert Advice, Feature
The extension side line that comes out from the natural sidewall that you see is known as the lower arch.
Along with the c-curve and apex, the lower arch is one of the most important elements of a successfully structured nail enhancement as these three components work in harmony together. The lower arch is determined by the width of the natural sidewalls and runs consistently throughout the length. Both sides of the lower arch must be parallel to each other; the lower arch and upper arch should be complementary otherwise it can create an unbalanced nail.
The correct lower arch provides the enhancement with a better c-curve, and the correct c-curve helps to provide strength to the enhancement. The correct and parallel lower arches are achieved from the very beginning of application – right back to the perfect form or tip fit.
Incorrect tip fit tip choice
If the form or tip fit is not correct, the symmetry of the enhancement will not be, nor will the structure (see photo). Tailoring the form to create the c-curve is an important part of a successful lower arch. Poor tailoring and a lack of relief cuts will prevent the correct closure of the form, resulting in a flat form and subsequently a flat c-curve and the likelihood of filing away too much of the lower arch to create a slim looking enhancement.
Certain shapes such as a tapered square (also known as ballerina or coffin) should be built from the appropriate form fit where the c-curve creates the tapered shape, rather than filing away the lower arch to create a taper, which will instead cause a weak enhancement. Another shape where common mistakes are often made is almond. The correct form fit and tailoring is important to ensure the lower arch does not taper up. Refer to my previous Scratch postor tips on how to create the most popular salon shapes.
It’s also important to be mindful of the nail’s lateral structure, or the sides of the enhancement as they extend from the nail grooves beyond the finger.
A compromised lateral structure can weaken the strength provided by even the best-built arch. The enhancement should always extend straight out from the natural nail sidewalls before taking on the desired free edge shape.
Form fit too low
When creating and filing the lower arch, you should continually check its position as you work, it should be parallel with the centre axis of the finger. Tilting in either direction, up or down, will create additional pressure on the enhancement and lead to weakness.
As well as creating a weakness, it is essential not to leave any notches or excess product on the lower arch as this can give the client something to pick at. Another occasion where the lower arch can become compromised is during infill or maintenance. The client may have knocked the contact point and created a chip.
The enhancement can also be over filed at this stage by the tech or the growth of the natural nail may alter the lower arch position. It is important to assess the enhancements strength and structure and whether a new enhancement is required or if the weakness can be repaired.
Lower arch going up
Notches in the lower arch
Filing the lower arch
One of the most common mistakes a tech can make is over filing the lower arch, especially if the form or tip fit was incorrect in the first place. Careful and controlled filing can help to prevent this. The way you hold your file is important when filing all parts of the enhancement, including the natural sidewalls and lower arch.
I always recommend leaving filing the lower arch as your last step in your filing routine to avoid over filing this. When filing the lower arch, always turn your client’s hand on its side and file carefully from this view. Create the lower arch marginally lower than usual to provide room for corrections.
Perfect your filing technique with tips and my technique by following my previous Scratch Magazine blog.
Just a small correction to your lower arch can be the difference between a bulky looking enhancement and a slim, well placed enhancement that looks natural and is strong.
Love Katie B x