Want your nail work on the runway? Here’s how to boss backstage at Fashion Week

Get your spring/summer 2024 mindset ready, as September marks the return of Fashion Weeks across the globe. If you’re striving to get involved in the session nail sphere, highly regarded regulars at Fashion Week share everything you need to know…

How to get hired

At Fashion Week, you’re not likely to being using gel polish directly on the nails of models, so make sure your other nail skills are up to scratch. “Contact manicurists you would like to work with and send them pictures of your nail polish designs,” says Marie-Louise Coster, who has keyed runway shows in London, Paris and Milan. “Gel polish is far more forgiving than nail polish because it will self-level, therefore I recommend perfecting your standard manicuring skills.”

Your press-on nail application skills should also be strong, adds renowned London-based session manicurist, Sabrina Gayle. “Being able to swiftly and flawlessly apply press-ons will make you a great Fashion Week assistant, so practice if you struggle with that.”

It’s not just nail skills that you need to be able to prove, comments Liia Zotova, a session stylist popularly known as @the.fingersofgod. “In order to be invited to work at Fashion Week, you need to have a creative approach, which can be showcased in shoots and editorial work you have participated in.”

“Being a team player is key. If an assistant has run out of or forgotten a product or needs help, don’t hesitate to support. We are a team unit backstage, and adaptability is crucial.” – Sabrina Gayle

Qualities you need

“Stamina is vital, as a session stylist may have to work hard for many hours – even on occasion, 24 hours,” says Marian Newman BEM, highly regarded and experienced Fashion Week nail artist. She adds that being star-struck is an unprofessional quality that must be avoided.

Respected London Fashion Week manicurist, Cherrie Snow, agrees, commenting: “A nail pro who’s not afraid to get stuck in amongst the chaos to get the job done, while respecting other creatives, is a huge tick for me. They should work fast under pressure, while maintaining a calm demeanour.”

Nail artist, Sylvie Macmillan, who is known for eye-catching session nail looks, stresses the importance of understanding fashion references to work at Fashion Week. “You’re there to add to the character that the fashion brand is trying to convey, so your work is about the brand’s identity – not yours,” she says. “I advise reading books about the history of fashion, researching work by major photographers, studying different subcultures and generally having an interest in society.”

What to expect

“Nail work at a fashion show is unlike day-to-day in a salon,” reveals Liia Zotova. “At Fashion Week, you don’t have a table or lamp and in a short time, you must tend to the nails of a large number of people, working alongside hairstylists and make-up artists.”

Sylvie Macmillan describes beauty teams as needing to work like a ‘shoal of fish’ around one another. “It’s about being respectful and aware of what’s happening; you don’t want models to feel like rag dolls with beauticians fighting over their bodies. We should be putting them at ease,” she comments.

“Expect the unexpected – be prepared to work in tight spots or under tables, share a model with multiple artists and potentially remove a press-on nail or gel enhancement,” adds Sabrina Gayle.

Sabrina Gayle’s kitbag essentials

• Antibacterial spray and disposable gloves to change after tending to each model.
• 180, 100 and 80-grit files, alongside a buffer, cuticle pusher and nipper.
• Nail polish remover, preferably acetone for a quick removal and to tackle unexpected gel polish or press-on nails from a previous show. It is a good idea to pack nail foils with pre-attached lint-free cotton pads, for speedy and easy removals where needed.
• A clean up brush.

Marie-Louise Coster’s etiquette advice

• Commit to the job and turn up.
• If you have agreed to a job and get offered another, don’t decline the first one.
• Behave professionally, courteously and ensure you are dressed appropriately.
• Listen to the lead nail stylist.
• Always ask about anything that you don’t know the answer to; don’t guess.
• Focus on your work, precisely and at speed.
• Ensure models are happy and comfortable.
• Complete all models before pampering any guests or backstage VIPs.
• Do not approach the designer to suggest yourself as the lead stylist for future events.
• On social media posts, make it clear who you assisted.

A nail photo by Cherrie Snow from the Emilia Wickstead AW23 London Fashion Week show.

Photo pointers

“My first priority is to finish all of the nail looks required, and then I can find a suitable moment to gather content discreetly,” says Cherrie Snow. “l never post anything from a show on social media until after it has finished, and I think it’s polite to wait until after the designer has posted, too.”

Sylvie Macmillan agrees, adding: “While it’s nice to document the nails, focusing on what you’ve been hired to do and not bugging models is how you get a return booking. The best opportunity to get content is when models are lined up prior to the show, as the styling, hair and make-up is done and you won’t capture anything that other artists aren’t happy with.”