Katie Barnes
Katie Barnes

An insight into the waterless manicure

By Katie Barnes | 14 February 2017 | Feature, Salon & Spas, Tech Talk, Technique

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Salon owner, educator, former Scratch columnist and award-winning nail stylist, Katie Barnes, susses out the waterless manicure…

The traditional method of dipping your fingers into a bowl of water while getting a manicure has become somewhat dated, with many techs now offering a waterless ‘dry’ manicure service.

Waterless manicures are becoming increasingly popular, particularly with mobile techs. A waterless manicure service does not require the client to soak their hands in water at any point and has less drying effects on the skin and the nails – while also saving time and water. By eliminating this stage, retention of nail polish and gel polish can be improved. The nail plate is porous and it can be hours before it can be safely worked on, so you can often end up filing a delicate and fragile nail plate, which is therefore more prone to micro-tears – leading to splitting and peeling, with thinner nail plates being much more affected.

While some believe it is more hygienic to first soak the hands in a bowl of water, when you think about it – how much of the fingers/hands are submerged in the water and is the soak you use antibacterial or cleansing? Whatever service is being provided, the first stage should always be both client and tech washing their hands or using antibacterial spray or gel.  When you offer a waterless manicure, the cleaning of the hands and nails is done with implements and solutions rather than by soaking.  You can ensure these solutions are antibacterial and the application of these products is thorough.

The nature of a manicure should be relaxing, yet the act of holding your fingers in a bowl of water can be quite uncomfortable with the wrist often not supported and the client having to hover their hands in the bowl for several minutes. A waterless manicure is also more appealing to a male clientele, which avoids holding their hands in a tiny bowl, most likely with a feminine scent or touch of petals in the bowl.

Many companies have developed creams and lotions which dissolve the sugar scrub when massaged without the need for removal, leaving the client’s skin fully hydrated and moisturised.  As well as taking away the need for the water to be used, this also saves time and can be a much tidier procedure.

To avoid confusion with pedicure services, due to toenails being thicker than fingernails and clients not using them as tools, soaking the feet for a few minutes to sanitise and prepare them for the service is acceptable. However, it’s not overly advantageous or hygienic to keep the feet in for the rest of the service.

Love Katie B x

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