Perfect your nail preparation
By Kat Hill | 03 April 2018 | Expert Advice, Feature
Alison Dowse, educator with Izabelle Hammon Ltd, reveals how she preps for a gel-based service…
Nail preparation is the most crucial step for the application of gel and should never be overlooked. One of the main reasons gels will start to lift is due to improper nail prep. Creating the perfect base that is smooth and free of dried cuticle or oils will ensure your service lasts.
Before any preparation, proper client consultation is needed to ensure you assess the natural nail. This ensures you carry out the needed prep. Before you start physical preparation, you should observe the nail plate, the skin around it and the condition of the hands themselves.
If your client has any stubborn overgrown cuticle, ensure you use a cuticle softener or remover before using a tool to gently remove it from the surface of the nail. Leaving dried cuticle on the surface of the nail will stop the gel from adhering to the surface of the nail and lead to lifting. Ensure you properly push cuticles back using a cuticle tool. Don’t just buff the nail, as this can still leave traces of cuticle on the surface of the nail. Finish with a light buff after using a cuticle pusher.
If you do use a softener, ensure your client washes their hands after. Some softeners or removers contain wax and oils that can interfere with the gel adhesion, so check your supplier’s instructions. It’s crucial to cleanse and dehydrate the surface of the nail properly to remove any last traces of oils.
I recommend the iz Beauty of London Cuticle Softener. The water-based formula moisturises and softens dry cuticle for easy removal. It’s available in a 14ml bottle with hygienic dropper.
Don’t forget to properly prep the whole nail. If nails lift from the side wall or from the cuticle area, close to the proximal fold, those areas may have been over-looked during prep. Use a soft file down the side walls to remove the shine and ensure you cleanse properly to remove any traces of dust before gel application.
