How to perfect the French pedicure

If you thought the French manicure was a thing of the past, think again. Colourful twists on the traditional style are ever-popular, and the look continues to be a go-to for bridal and versatile, year-round styles.

How big should be French edge be?

A French tip should mimic the natural free edge of the nail. Estimate how long the client will be going in between appointments and how quickly the nails will grow in that timeframe and come that little bit lower over the free edge. This will mean that the shadow of the natural free edge will now show through during this duration, giving a cleaner finish.

How long does the nail need to be?

It is a common misconception that the natural nail must be long to create a French tip pedicure. In fact, a short and natural French line looks more natural and attractive. When toenails are left too long, they can rub or have pressure from shoes which can cause discomfort and nail damage.

How to create the perfect French tip

Each tech will have their own preference as to how they paint the perfect French line. Some will use the gel or polish brush, others will prefer to use a fine line brush, striper brush or a dotting tool. My personal preference is to use a fine line brush. I create three dots – the middle of the free edge and each corner point.

I then use the fine brush to meet the dots together. I start from the middle to one side and then repeat on the other side. I then feather this towards the free edge to fill in the shape. Sometimes, a second coat will be necessary. Be careful not to apply the first coat too thickly otherwise this will cause curing or drying issues.

Which shade of pink should you choose?

You can use a neutral skin tone colour or tinted base coat depending on what your brand offers. This will come down to a few criteria.

• The client’s natural nail condition. If it is bruised or damaged, then a French finish is not necessary best for them. However, if they are still insistent, a cover pink or beige shade would be best suited to mask any blemishes.
• The client’s skin tone. Sheer pink shades suit paler skin tones, whilst brighter pinks can suit tanned skin or those that want a brighter finish. Beige shades can complement darker skin tones.
• The client’s preference. While you can suggest the most suitable shade in your professional option, each customer will have their own idea of the perfect shade.

Should you paint the white or pink first?

Again, this comes down to personal preference. I prefer the look of a clean free edge colour so I prefer to paint the pink first. When you paint the white first and then the pink, it will cloud the white. If you prefer to use a brush to clean up excess white after painting, then the white first is recommended so that you do not remove the pink colour.

However you create your French pedicures, with the sun shining again and the sandals being dusted out the wardrobe, these styles will be filling your books once again!

Love Katie B x

www.katiebarnesacademy.com

Images courtesy of KB Tool Range customer, @cjadesbeauty