How to nail the French tip pedicure
By Katie Barnes | 20 April 2025 | Expert Advice, Feature, Technique
Katie Clark, award-winning nail tech & founder of Katie Barnes Tool Range & Education, answers questions about perfecting the French pedi…
How big should the French tips be?
A French tip should mimic the natural free edge of the nail. Estimate how long the client will wait between appointments, plus how quickly the nails will grow in that timeframe, and paint lower over the free edge. This will mean that the shadow of the natural free edge will not show during this time, giving a cleaner finish.
How long should the nails be?
It is a common misconception that natural nails must be long to create a French pedicure. In fact, a short French line can appear natural and pleasing to the eye. When toenails are left too long, they can rub or experience pressure from shoes, which can cause discomfort and nail damage.
How can the perfect French tip be created?
Each tech will have their own preference for the technique. Some will use the brush of their gel or gel polish product, and others will opt for a fine liner brush, striper brush or dotting tool. My personal preference is to use a fine liner brush.
I create three dots: at the middle of the free edge and each corner point, and use the brush to join these together. I start from the middle to one side, then repeat on the other side. I feather this towards the free edge to fill in the shape. Sometimes, a second coat will be necessary. Be careful not to apply the first coat too thickly, otherwise this will cause curing or drying issues.
Image courtesy of Scratch Stars Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year 2024, Nailspa (@nailspahuddersfield). Nails prepped using Katie Barnes Tool Range.
How do you choose a base shade?
This will come down to the following criteria:
- The client’s natural nail condition: If it is bruised or damaged, a French finish is not necessarily best. However, if they are insistent, a cover pink or beige shade can mask any blemishes.
- The client’s skin tone: Sheer pink shades suit paler skin tones, while brighter pinks suit tanned skin or those that seek a bolder finish. Beige shades can complement darker skin tones.
- The client’s choice: While you can suggest the most suitable shade in your professional option, each customer will have their own preference.
Should you paint the pink or white first?
This comes down to personal preference. I prefer the look of a clean free edge colour, so prefer to paint the pink first. When you paint the white then the pink, it will cloud the white. If you prefer to use a brush to clean up excess white, painting the white first is recommended so that you do not remove the pink.
Love Katie x
*Originally published April 2022
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