How to choose smile lines to suit your client’s nails
By Katie Barnes | 19 August 2020 | Expert Advice, Feature
Different smile lines will suit different shapes and lengths of nails. Smile line execution requires different techniques to create each ‘type’ of smile line; competition, extreme, and salon viable. The general rule is that the longer and more pointed the nail, the deeper and longer the smile line should be.
A salon smile line/free edge proportion of the nail should be no more than 50% of the nail bed you have created to ensure an aesthetically pleasing nail. This nail bed measurement is measured from the cuticle to the highest point of the pink, so the deeper your smile line, the easier this will be to achieve this.
A longer enhancement achieves a dramatic and elegant effect in itself, meaning the smile line changes to mirror this and the rule changes. Around 30% of the nail should be the free edge shape so ensure the nail doesn’t look unbalanced.
Different rules apply when creating enhancements to suit a competition criteria and may be measured from another part of the nail such as the corner of the smile line. Each competition criteria will differ and these must be adhered to for each competition.
Generally, when looking at an extreme nail, you can see it in thirds with the extension edge making up a third of the nail that contains the smile line. The corners of the smile may reach all the way up into the centre of the middle third of the nail for a very deep and elegant look. This, however, is not a suitable effect for a short salon nail.
When creating shorter enhancements or using nail coatings such as gel polish, check the lunula. The natural shape of the lunula can help you to determine what type of nails would suit your client. The lunula, or moon, is the white area of the nail that is just above the cuticle.
Choosing a shape that mirrors the lunula or moon will help to ensure that it complements the nails.
For example, if you have a rounded cuticle zone, then a round shape would look best. However, if the cuticles are somewhat square, then a more squared off shape would look best.
When shaping your smile line, as well as checking it from the tech’s view, it is important to check from the client view. This gives you a more symmetrical angle and can help you achieve perfection when executing your smile lines.
Smile lines can be created using a variety of mediums from sculpting the smile line using liquid & powder or hard gel or using a paint on method with gel polish, nail polish or gel paint. Different mediums can be more suitable for different looks. Work with what you are most confident with.
Love Katie B x