Brush-on builder gel: how to nail application & infill

Enhance your knowledge of brush-on builder gel with insight from pros…

How to apply

“Thorough prep is imperative, as with any nail service,” details Theresa Foddering, head of education at Lecenté. “Providing the natural nail is adequately prepared, builder gel will brush on effortlessly.

“I recommend applying a thin first layer and curing this, to aid adhesion and provide a smooth base for subsequent layers.”

“Apply builder gel in three layers: a base, slip* and bead,” advises Lisa Stone, Salon System educator. “Apply the gel as close as possible to the cuticle and side walls without touching them, and use small, gentle movements to work the gel into the nail – rather than long brush strokes.

“If the builder gel seems bulky, don’t hesitate to buff it down.”

*“A slip layer is an uncured layer, which improves self-levelling and the adhesion of the subsequent gel layer, and helps to achieve smooth, bubble-free application,” notes Melanie Lewendon, Scratch Stars Educator of the Year 2024.

“I recommend that nail techs work on one nail at a time when applying The GelBottle Inc’s BIAB™, so they can focus on building up each apex perfectly,” comments Zara Horrill, The GelBottle Inc educator.

“Flipping the client’s hand upside down allows gravity to assist in enhancing the apex and pulls the product into the centre of the nail to shorten refining time.”

“A fine liner brush will be your best friend when applying builder gel, as you can use it to pull excess gel that has gathered at the free edge to create the apex,” says Katie Turner, Glitterbels brand ambassador.

“However, you can avoid this issue in the first place by maintaining your client’s hand level, rather than pointing it down.”

How to infill

“A full maintenance service sees existing product filed down entirely, allowing for the replacement of the apex, repositioning of product and reshaping of the free edge,” shares Katie Clark, founder of Katie Barnes Tool Range & Education. “This becomes necessary two to three weeks after the initial builder gel application, when the enhancement loses its balance, leading to the forward movement of the apex as it grows out.

“Infills, rebalances or refills are typically required around two weeks after the initial service.”

Katie continues: “The cuticle area is filled to restore the apex to its original position, reinforcing strength at the stress point where most cracks occur. An infill service is sufficient for many clients, eliminating the need to file down an entire enhancement, unless there has been a breakdown in service.”

“During an infill service, debulking the nail back to a thinner foundation layer allows you to check the visual health of the natural nail,” adds Theresa Foddering. “If using a strong grit, ensure you are only filing product and not natural nail growth.”

“When debulking, remove the majority of product, to keep nails looking most aesthetically pleasing,” advises Orla O’Donohoe, The Manicure Company brand ambassador. “If you keep refilling a builder gel base, nails can become thick and chunky, which doesn’t present a neat appearance.”

Lead image shows the application of en Vogue CBS Build in Peach.

Click to check out 18 brush-on builder gels to extend & enhance nails.