Artificial nails: 7 steps to reduce the risk of allergy

Caroline Rainsford, director of science at the Cosmetics, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA), shares practical ways to reduce allergy in the nail space…

Acrylate monomers, which are the starting materials in liquid & powder (L&P) and UV/LED gel nail systems, can sometimes cause allergic reactions if they touch the skin. An allergy is not only unpleasant and lifelong, but can cause problems if you need to have certain medical or dental treatments in the future. So, it’s really important to know how to protect yourself and clients from developing an allergy.

Here, I look at practical steps to use artificial nail systems safely, by avoiding contact of product with the skin. All of this information can be found in the CTPA’s Guideline on Artificially Enhanced Nails and Minimising the Risk of Allergy, which has been developed for salon professionals, clients, manufacturers and anyone else working with artificial nail enhancements. It contains advice for safe use of these products and can be found on the CTPA consumer website: www.thefactsabout.co.uk.

Step 1: avoid skin contact

This is the most important point. Safe use requires that the L&P and UV/LED gel systems do not make contact with any part of the skin and only come into contact with the nail. This requires very careful application. This is difficult to achieve when attempting to apply these products at home, which is why it’s recommended that acrylic or UV/LED gel coatings should only be applied by fully-trained and competent nail professionals. Allergies arising from the misuse of acrylates can be reduced with education and correct usage.

Step 2: apply to healthy nails only

The L&P and UV/LED gel systems must only be applied to healthy nails. Damaged nails can increase the absorption of the ingredients and risk of having a reaction. Don’t remove nail ridges or apply product to nails if they are cracked, split or bruised. Product also shouldn’t be applied if the area of the finger surrounding the nail is looking sore, inflamed or the skin is broken.

Step 3: wear appropriate gloves

Wear the right type of gloves when applying the L&P and UV/LED gel systems to nails. Treat used tissues or wipes as contaminated and do not allow them to touch the skin. Industry best practice recommends that nail professionals wear nitrile gloves of 0.8mm thickness, which should be changed after every client. For those who already have an allergy, two pairs of gloves should be worn at the same time and changed every 15 minutes, as the chemicals involved can penetrate through the gloves given sufficient time. Gloves that have a long, tight fitting cuff are also recommended.

Step 4: do not reuse gloves

Never reuse gloves. Washing them does not remove the material and wearing them inside out a second time will increase the risk of allergy, because the skin will be in contact with the acrylates.

Step 5: proper removal of gloves

Removing gloves without the contaminated part of the fingers touching the skin requires a technique that needs practice. If you want to check your glove removing technique, put a little paint onto the glove fingers and try to remove the gloves without getting any paint on yourself.

Step 6: correct lamp usage

Always check whether the gel brand you’re using is compatible with your LED lamp and/or UV lamp. Manufacturers develop their products very carefully to maximise the amount of monomer that is turned into polymer, in order to achieve the most efficient cure possible. This involves not only the composition of the product, but the lamp to use it with and for how long.

It’s not possible to tell just by looking at a nail whether it’s fully cured. Always use the appropriate lamp for a sufficient length of time to properly cure the system, and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Incompletely cured gel leaves both the customer and nail professional at greater risk of exposure and subsequent allergy. In addition, high-quality bulbs from a reputable source should be used in a UV lamp and kept clean. Dirty bulbs, or bulbs reaching the end of their life, may no longer provide the required intensity of UV light for complete curing.

Step 7: use reputable products

Cosmetic products on the UK market, which include L&P and UV gel nail products, must comply with the UK Cosmetic Regulation. This regulation makes sure that only safe cosmetic products can be placed on the UK market. As part of your duty of care to your clients and staff, be suspicious of any products offered for sale from unusual places such as less well-known internet sites, and always be wary of offers that seem too good to be true.

*Originally published 2021